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Advantage Koi Pond
20 Questions of Pond Design
By
Sacramento Koi
Click on a link below
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"The
only koi pond filters on the market today that come with
a MANUFACTURERS ONE YEAR UNCONDITIONAL SATISFACTION
GUARANTEE." |
This
section contains some very important information that every potential
pond owner should ask himself/herself before beginning the process
of building their dream pond. Steve Walker,
Sacramento Koi pond expert and designer of the Advantage Koi Pond
Filtration System, gives some insightful answers to some important
questions.
1)
How large should I make my pond?
2) Where should I place my pond?
3) Can I grow plants in my pond?
4) Which pond is better, a rubber liner pond or a concrete pond?
5) How important is the shape and contour of the pond?
6) How deep should I make the pond?
7) How important is the filter?
8) How far away from my pond can I install my filter system?
9) Do I need a pre filter?
10) What size pump will I need?
11) What size pipe should I use?
12) How important is it to have a bottom drain?
13) How important is it to have a skimmer?
14) How important is it to have jets?
15) How important is it to have an auto-fill?
16) Do I need to install an ultraviolet light?
17) Should I install under water lights in my pond?
18) Should I install an automatic feeder on my koi pond?
19) How many koi can I put in my pond?
20) What should I look for when selection someone to build my
koi pond?
1.
How large should I make my pond?
One of the most common mistakes people make with their first pond
is that they build it too small. For koi fish, the smallest pond
we recommend building is 1500 gallons, which would be approximately
7 feet wide by 8 feet long and 4 feet deep.
That may sound huge to many beginners, but most people who already
have a koi pond, will agree that if you build a pond much smaller
than that, you will not be happy with it. The problem is that
koi fish are extremely addictive and it is hard to be content
with just a few. Also, keep in mind that you may start out with
several 6 inch long koi, but within 3 or 4 years they could grow
to 24 inches or more. With few exceptions, most people, after
a while, wish they had made their first pond bigger. On the other
hand, you can also make your pond too big. Bigger is not always
better.
The largest pond we recommend building is 15,000 gallons, which
would be approximately 17 feet wide by 21 feet long and 6 feet
deep. If you build a pond much larger than that you run into several
problems. In a very large pond it can become almost impossible
to catch the fish if you need to. It can also be very expensive
to medicate the pond if that becomes necessary. Additionally,
all the water in the pond will need to be filtered at least once
every three hours. Running pumps large enough to accomplish this
can cost several hundreds of dollars per month.
Finally, if you build the pond too large you may not enjoy the
koi as much, because in a very large pond the koi are not always
visible.
2.
Where should I place my pond?
There are several things to consider. First, koi ponds do better
in a shaded area than in full sun. Full sun will work, but a shaded
area will generally slow the algae growth down and will prevent
the water from possibly getting too hot during the summer months.
If you chose to build in a sunny area it might be practical to think
of building some type of arbor, either now or in the future, to
give your pond some shade. Unlike a swimming pool, leaves from trees
near the pond should not create a problem if the pond is properly
designed.*
In many areas local building codes require any pond deeper than
2 feet be within a fenced in area, which could present a problem
if you want to build it in your front yard. Once you have chosen
a general location for the pond, we recommend you use a garden hose
to outline the exact location, size and shape of the pond. This
can be extremely helpful in giving you a better idea of exactly
how the pond will look. After placing the hose where you plan to
build the pond, stand back and examine it from several locations
and ask yourself. “Will it be the size pond that I want”?
“Will it be as visible as I would like it to be from, say,
the back deck, the kitchen window or wherever I would like to be
able to see it”? Keep in mind, this pond will most likely
be the central feature of your whole landscaping.
Once you have the general outline shape of the pond established
you can get an approximate idea of how many gallons it would be
by multiplying the (average length) x (average width) x (average
depth) x (7.5 gallons per cubic foot). Also you may use our on-line
Pond Planning Calculator to help you out.
*One note of caution: Pine trees are the one exception. Pine needles
tend to create a real mess in a koi pond. Unlike leaves, needles
can travel through the skimmer basket and the leaf basket on the
pump and end up in your pump impeller. If possible, do not build
a koi pond near a pine tree. Redwood trees, although messy, are
not near the problem pine trees are.
3.
Can I grow plants in my pond?
If you really want to grow plants in your koi pond you can, but
they really complicate things. Here is why:
If you place shelves in the pond to support the plants and the shelves
are less than 2 feet deep, you risk the chance of loosing your koi
to predators. Even if the shelves are deeper than 2 feet below the
water level you may still have a problem. If when you place a potted
plant on the shelf and the top of the pot is less than 2 feet from
the pond surface a blue heron may wait until a fish swims over the
pot and then strike, pinning the fish against the plant pot.
Most water plants do not like water movement so you cannot use jets
in the pond. Therefore, most of the leaves that fall in the pond
will sink to the bottom before they reach the skimmer and may have
to be netted out by hand.
Often times new plants will have parasites on them so you will need
to treat them with potassium permanganate before you introduce them
to the pond.
If parasites do get into your pond you will need to treat the whole
pond. Most chemicals used to treat for parasites in koi ponds are
toxic to plants. This means you will need to remove all the plants
while you treat the pond. Additionally, you will need to treat the
plants separately before you return them to the pond.
One of the most effective ways to combat string algae in a koi pond
is to increase the salt level in the pond to .4%. This is not an
option when you have plants in the pond because, most plants cannot
tolerate salt and will die.
Once koi get to be 12 inches or larger they begin to eat most plants.
Most pond plants begin to die back in the fall and create a real
mess in the pond.
Koi can hide under the pond plants and this can create a potential
problem. If a koi gets sick and begins to isolate itself, you may
not notice it until it is too late. Plus, if you need to catch a
koi for any reason it can be a real challenge catching them among
all the plants.
Some people will argue that you must have plants in the pond because
the plants are necessary to consume the nitrates that build up in
the pond. That would be true if it weren’t for all the algae
that naturally forms in a pond. A healthy pond will normally develop
a ¾ inch layer of green algae on all the inside walls of
the pond. This algae, which feeds on nitrates just like pond plants
do, is usually more than sufficient to keep the nitrates at a safe
level.
A
pond with plants in it can be very attractive, but so can a well
landscaped pond which has beautiful plants surrounding it, yet with
none actually in the pond. Tom Holder (owner of Koi Care Kennel)
built this pond with the Advantage System on it and with no plants
in the pond. He has a healthy pond that is both beautiful and very
easy to maintain.
4. Which pond is better, a rubber
liner pond or a concrete pond?
They both have their own advantages. A concrete pond, when designed
and built properly, is more permanent. (You must make sure it is
designed and plumbed properly because it is almost impossible to
make changes later.)
The shape and contours can be very smooth and even. The biggest
disadvantage of a concrete pond is that because of all the exposed
concrete the ph tends to be higher than ideal for at least the first
three years. This can easily be overcome by letting the concrete
cure and then coating the pond surface up to the water line with
a rubber base paint or epoxy. A 45 mil rubber liner pond is not
as permanent, which can actually be a benefit.
If the pond has some design flaws that you need to change or you
need to remove the pond, a rubber liner is much easier to work with.
A real advantage is that liner ponds tend to maintain a more neutral
ph. The rubber liner creates a very soft surface for the Koi. Even
when a liner pond is installed properly you will have a number of
miner folds in the liner.
Once the pond is filled with water these folds become barely visible.
Rock work around the edge of a liner pond can be a challenge if
you don’t want the liner to show. The reason is because the
rock work will need to extend down into the water and the mortar
for the rock work will not stick to the liner. (To solve this problem
see “Advantage Pond Design Plans” under "Rock Work.")
The problem of cutting a hole in a liner for the bottom drains,
jets, etc. is easily overcome with the proper drains and bulkhead
fittings. When installed properly a liner pond can easily be leak
free for many years.
5.
How important is the shape and the bottom contour of the pond?
The shape of the pond is much more important than most people
realize. Many times people will get very creative with the pond
shape so that it rambles all around the landscape and ends up
looking like a piece of a puzzle.
Only after the pond is built and filled with water dose the
problem become apparent. You can’t keep it clean. If the
pond is shaped so that it has dead areas where the water is
not moving, leaves and debris will collect there and eventually
sink.
Additionally, the bottom contour of the pond is equally important.
Flat bottom ponds require constant vacuuming to keep them clean.
If you are retired and have two hours each day to clean your
pond you can build it any shape you wish. On the other hand,
if you want to build a pond that is almost “self cleaning”
pay close attention to both the shape of the pond and the inside
contour leading from the edges of the pond all the way to the
bottom drains.
We can’t express enough how important the contour of a
koi pond is. A well designed pond shape and contour can save
you many hours of back breaking work and help provide a healthier
environment for the koi. See the “Advantage Koi Pond Plans”
for more details on pond shape and bottom contour.

6.
How deep should I make the pond?
A serious koi pond should be at least 3 feet deep and no areas
should be shallower than 2 feet. Any areas shallower than 2
feet is an open invitation to dinner for both blue herons and
raccoons.
If you don’t think you have predators in your neighborhood
just build a shallow pond and watch what happens! Even a single
safety step to help you get out of the pond, that is less than
2 feet deep, can cost you most of your fish. Also, all sides
should go almost straight down, not tapered. “Aquascape”
type ponds where the sides of the pond gently taper in toward
the bottom will not work for koi.
Even if you build a “deep area” for the fish with
a cave in it, for them to hide in, you are still not safe. Blue
herons will wade out into the water, stand perfectly still,
and simply wait for the koi to come out and then strike. Do
not place shelves for plants in the pond. You can hang potted
plants over the side with wires to support them. That way if
you start having problems you can simply remove them.
If you decide to ignore this advice you will probably (after
loosing your favorite fish) end up covering your pond with a
net or in one case I saw ½ inch rebar used to keep out
raccoons.
Most people would agree that a beautiful pond is somewhat ruined
when it has to be covered with something to protect the fish.
A deep pond with steep sides is the best defense against predators.
Koi fish get their exercise by swimming up and down in a pond
rather than horizontally. Therefore, if you plan on growing
“jumbo koi” you will need to build the pond at least
6 feet deep.
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7.
How important is the filter?
The filter is the heart of your koi pond. The filter is what keeps
the water clear and healthy for the fish. Many ponds have failed
because the owners spent all their money on a beautiful pond and
tried to save money on their filter.
The filter serves two purposes.
• One, it serves as a mechanical filter removing fish waste
and anything else in the pond that would cloud the water.
• Two, it serves as a biological filter by converting the
ammonia produced by the fish into nitrites and eventually into
nitrates which, in general, are harmless to the fish.
Some filters can be very high maintenance requiring constant attention
while others can be very easy to maintain. Rule number one, when
it comes to filters, “You can never have too big a filter.”
When choosing a filter, selecting a filter that is slightly oversized
for your pond can be a very wise investment.
8.
How far away from the pond can I install the filter system?
The Advantage Bead Filters have the advantage of being a pressurized
system.
That means the filters can be installed some distance from the
pond making it easier to hide. For long runs from 50 feet to 300
feet, the diameter size of the pipe traveling to and from the
filter may need to be increased, up to 3 inches, depending on
the size of the pond.
9.
Do I need a Pre-Filter?
A pre filter is designed to collect solid material such as leaves,
fish waste and string algae before they get to your filter. In
some small ponds, the pump and skimmer baskets may be sufficient.
The larger the pond, the more debris it will produce, therefore,
the more important they become. Pre filters are especially important
if you have a filter that is hard to clean such as a gravel type
filter, because you usually are only cleaning them once or twice
a year. The more waste you can keep out of them, the less often
you will have to clean them. Pre filters are not as important
with a good bead filter because you can easily remove the waste
from the filter whenever necessary.
There are basically 3 types of pre filters:
• A simple holding tank, made of concrete or fiberglass,
with rows of brushes or mat material suspended in it to capture
debris before it gets to the pump. A typical tank may be 5 feet
square and 2 to 3 feet deep. This type of pre filter will require
you to regularly remove and clean the brushes or mat material
• Vortex pre filters are shaped like a big round tub that
is tapered at the bottom. Water enters from the side at an angel
which causes the water to rotate in the tub. This causes any debris
to drift to the outer wall and then sink to the bottom of the
tank where it can be drained out when needed. Clean water exits
from a pipe in the center. Vortex filters may require a large
hole to set in and in some situations, a sump pump to drain them.
• The “Advantage Collector Box” is a fiberglass
box with a large rigid net in it. The large model has 4 openings,
each with a slide valve that allow you to select up to 4 different
sources from where the water is to be drawn from. The medium model
has 3 openings. With the valves you can easily regulate the flow
from each source and on occasion, flush one line at a time to
reduce the chance of debris collecting in the pipes. It requires
the least amount of space and is probably the easiest to clean.
It is designed for ponds 6,000 gallons and larger.
10.
What size pump will I need?
In selecting a pump you have one simple goal in mind. To move
the proper amount of water for the least amount of money. The
hard part is to estimate how much water you need to move. Here
are some things to consider. Ideally, you want to send all your
pond water through the filter at least once every 2 to 3 hours.
We also recommend sending water through some jets on the sides
of your pond. (see #14 How important is it to have jets?). Are
you going to have a water fall? If so, how high will it be? What
kind of filter will you be using?
Is it important that the pump be quiet? All these factors have
to be considered before you select a pump. Make sure you purchase
an efficient pump built for koi ponds. Your pump will be running
24 hours a day. An inefficient pool type pump can cost you an
extra $100.00 a month in electricity.
11.
What size pipe should I use?
Pipe size is extremely important on koi ponds. Pool builders will
often use smaller diameter pipe when building a swimming pool
because it is cheaper and easier to work with. They can easily
overcome the restriction caused by the smaller pipe by using large
high pressure pool pumps. This is acceptable because they usually
only run these pumps 4 to 6 hours a day. Koi ponds, on the other
hand, must move large volumes of water 24 hours a day. The smaller
you make your pipe, the more pressure it will require to move
water through it. Pumps are rated by how much water ( gallons
per minute) they can move at a certain amount of head pressure.
1 foot of head pressure is the amount of pressure required to
push water up vertically 1 foot. Example: To move 20 gallons of
water per minute through 50 feet of 1 inch pipe would require
11.4 feet of head pressure. If you increased your pipe size from
1 inch to 2 inch your head pressure would drop to .4 feet of head.
The lower you keep your head pressure, the smaller, more efficient
pump you can use. This can save you a lot of money over
the years.
12.
How important is it to have a bottom drain?
Another common mistake that is almost impossible to correct after
the pond is built is failure to install a bottom drain. Bottom
drains are a must for a successful koi pond. To maintain proper
water quality you need to get the fish waste into the filter so
it can be removed from the system. Without a bottom drain, the
best filter in the world cannot do it’s job properly. Some
ponds may require several bottom drains. That shows how important
they are to a successful pond. Some manufacturers would have you
believe that a bottom drain is not required. By simply placing
rocks on the bottom of the pond and allow beneficial bacteria
to grow in the rocks you will duplicate what you find in nature
and everything will be just fine. The problem with that reasoning
is that in nature you often have a constant supply of fresh water
entering the river or lake and the fish population is usually
about one fish per 30,000 gallons whereas, in a koi pond you are
constantly recycling the same water over and over again and the
fish population averages about one fish per 150 gallons. Unless
you only put one koi in your pond and change the water constantly
you can’t duplicate nature. What works in nature will not
work in a koi pond. Also, as leaves collect and begin to decay
amongst the rocks, they produce tannin acid which, though it doesn't
bother the fish, will turn the water a brown dirty looking root
beer color. The only way to get clear water again is to drain
the pond and power wash the rotting leaves from between the rocks.
This is a major job which, at best, provides only a temporary
fix until the leaves again collect in the rocks. Additionally,
this whole cleaning process is extremely stressful to any koi
in the pond since they will need to be netted up and stored while
the pond is cleaned and will then be placed back into a pond that
has experienced a 100% water change and the whole ecological balance
of the pond has been changed. This whole experience can be avoided
by simply leaving out the rocks, installing a bottom drain and
contouring the bottom, so that any fish waste or leaves that end
up on the bottom of the pond will work their way to the drain
and be removed.
13.
How important is it to have a skimmer?
A
skimmer can make the difference between enjoying a pond and beginning
to resent it after a while. A properly functioning skimmer will
collect the leaves and anything else that lands on the surface
of your pond into a net or basket, where it can be easily disposed
of. Without a skimmer, you are sentenced to a life of constantly
cleaning leaves and debris from your pond. They are a real bargain
when you consider the minimal expense they add to your pond.
Note: Even if you plan to build your pond inside your house, where
there would be no leaves, you should still install a skimmer because
in addition to leaves, they skim off the “dissolved organic
compounds” (DOC). Dissolved organic compounds will form
in any pond and if not removed will cause an unsightly film and
bubbles on the surface of the pond. A skimmer removes this film
by constantly skimming off the top surface of the pond.
14.
How important is it to have jets?
Jets
are very often overlooked by beginners when building a pond. Anyone
who has ever had properly installed jets in their pond would never
consider building a pond without them. Jets have several wonderful
benefits. They provide exercise for the fish because they love
to swim in the current. By installing the proper type of jets,
in the right location and depth in a pond, they can be used to
direct leaves toward the skimmer making the skimmer much more
effective. In addition, as the water from the jets breaks the
surface of the pond it picks up considerable amounts of oxygen
thus increasing the overall oxygen level of the pond.
15.
How important is it to have an auto-fill?
An auto-fill is one of those features that if you install one
you will love it. It makes maintaining a pond much easier. An
auto-fill does just what the name implies. It will automatically
keep the pond water at the same level all the time. As water evaporates,
it will automatically replace it. They are especially useful if
you have a bead filter, because each time you backwash the filter
the auto fill will replace any water used during the process.
Too often you hear of someone turning on the hose to add water
and then forgetting to turn it off only to later find all their
koi dead. This is because whenever you replace more than 10% of
your pond water at any one time, with city water, you need to
add a dechlorinater to neutralize the chlorine in the water which
is toxic to fish. With an auto-fill you don’t run the risk
of forgetting to turn off the water. Under normal use it is generally
not necessary to add dechlorinator to the pond each time the auto-fill
comes on because it is only replacing such a small percentage
of water. Again, the exception would be if you were replacing
more than 10% of the pond water at any one time.
16.
Do I need to install an ultra-violet light?
New
ponds are especially prone to algae blooms until the whole ecological
system of the pond matures which may take several years. Ultraviolet
lights are designed to kill any algae floating in the water. Algae
blooms in ponds can turn a perfectly clear pond into a thick pea
soup looking pond in a short period of time. The way ultraviolet
lights work is when the algae in the water passes through the
unit it is exposed to a very bright ultraviolet light. This energy
from the light destroys the DNA in the algae which in turn causes
it to eventually die. As the algae cells die they will begin to
stick together so that they can be filtered out of the water.
Selecting the proper size light is very important. If the light
is not big enough for the pond that it is installed on you will
notice almost no effect. Additionally, if the water flow through
the light is too fast it will also reduce the efficiency of the
light to where it has little effect. Ultraviolet lights are not
effective against string type algae because it attaches to the
pond and does not flow through the light.
17.
Should I install under water lights in my pond?
Under
water lights installed in a pond extends the enjoyment of the
pond beyond the daylight hours. The pond takes on a completely
different look at night with lights in it. At night, because there
is no glare from sunlight on the pond surface, the koi become
more visible than ever. The only complaints we ever hear about
pond lights is that “I wish we had installed more lights
when we built the pond”. We usually recommend installing
several or more lights in a pond, depending on the size of the
pond. Generally, the purpose of adding lights to a koi pond is
to light up the koi not just the pond When you only add one light
to a pond you often times end up with one stream of light shining
across the pond while much of the pond is still in the shadows.
With several lights coming from different angles the whole pond
lights up and thus the koi become very visible.
18.
Should I install an automatic feeder on my koi pond?
Automatic feeders have their place. If you have a large pond and
you want your koi to grow as fast as possible, then install an
automatic feeder and feed them a high protein food 5 times a day
during the whole summer. On the other hand, if you just want something
to relieve you of the responsibility of feeding your koi daily
I would encourage you to save your money and find the time to
do it yourself even if it is only once a day. By feeding your
koi on a daily basis you will become familiar with how they respond
to the food. This is invaluable! The first time you feed them
and you notice one or more of them responding differently, you
know something is wrong. It could be something as simple as your
water chemistry is off or something more serious such as parasites.
Whatever it is, you will be able to get a jump on it before it
becomes a real problem. When you go on vacation just ask your
neighbor if he or she would mind coming over once a day and throwing
some food in the pond. Most neighbors would jump at the chance.
The real advantage of your neighbor feeding you koi while you
are on vacation rather than some machine, is that if there is
a problem they can call someone.
19.
How many koi can I put in my pond?
This is a good question and a hard one to answer. There is an
optimum number of koi for each pond. The problem is, that number
keeps changing. A well built 1500 gallon pond will easily sustain
30 koi 6 inches long. Two years later when those same 30 koi are
now all 18 inches long you have a real problem, because your pond
is now over stocked. Because people tend to overstock their ponds,
all the Advantage Koi Pond System Kits, were designed to have
an oversized filter on them. This means that the limiting factor
for how many koi you can keep in your pond will not be limited
by the filtering system. Rather, the limiting factor will be how
crowded the koi look in the pond. Even with perfect water quality
when the koi become too crowded their immune system begins to
slow down and they begin to have problems. The best way to judge
how many koi to keep in a pond with the Advantage System is simply
to examine how crowded they look. If they can’t swim in
a relaxed fashion it is time to remove some even though the water
quality tests fine.
20.
What should I look for when selecting someone to build my koi
pond?
Do
not make the costly mistake of assuming that your landscaper or
contractor knows how to build a koi pond correctly. You need to
do your homework and give some serious thought as to how you want
your koi pond to turn out. Review the previous questions and make
notes as to what is important to you and what is not. How big
do you want the pond to be? How important is it to you that the
pond be easy to maintain? How much do you want to spend on the
pond? You need to have clear in your mind what kind of pond you
want. Then, when selecting someone to build your pond, interview
them concerning their workmanship and experience. If you can find
someone who specializes in building koi ponds, that might be helpful.
The reason I say it might be helpful is because sometimes people
who only build koi ponds have one set way of building them and
are not open to changes. With today’s new technology you
can create a pond that will not only give you better water quality,
but one that will be so much easier to maintain than what was
offered just 8 years ago. Unless you and your builder can agree,
beforehand, on exactly how you want your pond to be built, the
whole experience could be a disaster. For example: One customer
contracted to have a formal shaped 3,000 gallon pond built “exactly”
according to the “Advantage Koi Pond Design Plans”
for a 3,000 gallon pond. He was a very busy doctor who needed
a pond that was as easy to maintain as possible. The contractor
continued to assure him, as he was building the pond, that he
was following the plans exactly. When the pond was finally completed
it was beautiful to look at with it’s slate waterfall and
edges. At night, the lights he installed help create a wonderful
sight. The problem was that there was no gradual contour leading
from the sides of the pond to the bottom drain. The contractor
had completely ignored the recommended bottom contour so the waste
would be removed automatically and instead made the whole bottom
flat. The result is that, now the owner has to, on a weekly basis,
vacuum the bottom of his pond to keep it free of debris. Needless
to say, the owner is furious with the contractor. The lesson from
this example is that you really need to get involved in the design
of your pond. Don’t leave it all up to your contractor.
Listen to his advice but it is up to you to make sure it is being
built correctly.
Note: If you need a second opinion, feel
free to give Kimberly a call at Coast To Coast Koi. She 's completed
Sacramento Koi's intense one day class on how to build the perfect
koi pond. Sacramento Koi offers this class once a month. Call
us if you'd like more information.
Email
coasttocoastkoi@msn.com
or call (801) 706-4624.
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